I wasn’t sure exactly what I was going for when I started this vest. I love this yarn (it feels squishy!), and it’s a great weight – not too heavy and not too light. Once I had all the panels sewn together and put it on, it looked to me like something from the ’70’s. I was in high school in the ’70’s so I should know. 🙂 It was calling out for the shell edging and some fringe. Sometimes, that’s just how a new design happens. So I answered the call and voila! The Vintage Mod Vest. If you make this, let me know how it turns out. I hope you like it!
If you’d like an ad-free, easily printable version of the pattern, you can help support my small business and purchase it for a small fee in my Etsy shop – SimpleThings byTia, or in my Ravelry Store – Simple Things Crochet.
Back view.
Materials:
Lion Brand Jeans Yarn in Khaki – approximately 5 skeins for a medium size 6-8.
Hook size J
Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Tape Measure
Abbreviations:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
st(s) – stitch, stitches
sp – space
For the vest, you will be crocheting two front panels and one back panel. You join them at the shoulders and sides and then add the shell stitch border. If you’d like it larger or smaller, just chain more or less accordingly for the starting rows of the panels. This vest ends up being about 38” long. I’m 5’6” and it hits around my knees. The belt is optional and you can make it any length you like.
Instructions:
Notes:
1. Don’t count your turning chain as a stitch.
2. I recommend using stitch markers to mark your rows. For example, every 10 rows place a marker at the end. The yarn is somewhat stretchy and very soft (it’s one of my favorite yarns ever!). The markers will help you line up your panels when it’s time to sew the panels together.
Front panels – make two
Chain 35
Row 1: dc in 4th from hook and in each chain across to the end. Turn, ch 2. You should have 32 dc stitches not counting your turning chain.
Row 2: dc in very first stitch at the base of your turning chain, and in each stitch across. Count to be sure you have 32 stitches not counting your turning chain. Turn, ch 2.
Rows 3 – 52: Repeat row 2. Tie off and weave in ends.
Back Panel
Chain 68
Row 1: dc in 4th from hook and in each chain across to the end. Turn, ch 2. You should have 65 dc stitches not counting your turning chain.
Row 2: dc in very first stitch at the base of your turning chain, and in each stitch across. Count to be sure you have 65 stitches not counting your turning chain. Turn, ch 2.
Rows 3 – 52: Repeat row 2. Tie off and weave in ends.
Lay back panel out flat with right side facing you. Lay the two front panels on top with the wrong sides facing you. (You want the right sides together.)
Line up the panels along the sides and top, and then stitch the top shoulder seams. This is where those stitch markers come in handy. There should be a little space between the front panels; they don’t meet in the middle.
Measure about 8 inches down from the top on each side, and then stitch down the sides leaving about 4 inches for the side slits.
Turn the vest right side out.
Shell stitch edging:
Starting with the right panel (as if you were wearing it), attach your yarn at the hemline. Ch 1, sc in the next open space (the gap between stitches – see photo below), *skip the next sp, 5 dc in next sp, skip next sp, 1 sc in next space*, continue pattern from * to * up the right side, across the back neckline, and down the left side. You should end with 1 sc in the last space. Tie off and weave in ends.
Belt:
Ch 200
Row 1: Turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across.
Row 2: Turn, ch 2, hdc in first st and in each st across.
Row 3: Turn, ch 1, sc in first st and in each st across.
Row 4: Turn, ch 2 hdc in first st and in each st across.
Row 5: Turn, ch 1, sc in first st and in each st across.
Tie off. You can weave in your ends or leave them as part of the fringe.
Cut six 12” lengths of yarn for each end of the belt. You’re folding these in half so a 12” length of yarn will result in a 6” long fringe. (You’ll need a total of 12 lengths of yarn for the fringe.)
Fold a piece of yarn in half and use your hook to pull the loop partway through the end of the belt where you want to place the fringe. Pull the two loose ends through the loop and pull tight. Repeat with each piece of yarn.
Mark where you want to place your belt with stitch markers. You’ll be weaving the belt directly through the dc stitches. (See photo below.) Starting at the back, push the belt through from the right side to the wrong side of the vest, about 3 dc stitches over, pull the belt back through creating a little belt loop. Repeat at the side seams and on the front panels. I created belt loops about 3 inches away from the shell edging on the front panels. Feel free to place your belt wherever you want.
Annette
August 31, 2018 11:52 pmI love all 3 of your vest patterns. The trouble I am having is flr changing sizes. I am 5’4″ tall and have very broad shoulders for a woman. For instance, you say that each side in the front is 9″. I am14″ on each side and 17 or 18″ acrpss the back. How would I mame those adjustments to fit my football shoulders?
Tia
September 1, 2018 1:57 pmHi Annette,
I’m so glad you like my patterns! They are simple to adjust in size as they are just basic rectangles sewn together. I would start with the back panel. Make the beginning chain long enough to reach across the outer points of your shoulders with a little extra for it to drape down (or however wide you want the vest to be). Even though the pattern starts at the bottom, it’s the same size all the way up. Whatever that width is, divide it in half, then take another inch off for the front panels. For example, my Grey Grannies Vest has a back panel of 24″. So 24 ➗ 2 = 12, minus 1 and you have 11″ for each front panel. Adjusting the length is even easier, just hold the panel up to yourself and keep going till you get the length you want. I hope this helps!
Happy crocheting!
Tia