This Bernat Blanket Yarn was so soft and yummy that I wasn’t satisfied with just making a blanket – I wanted something I could wear. And so this cape was born… and it is scrumptious!! It’s super simple, too, using only single crochet and double crochet stitches. I think even a beginner could handle it. Besides being strikingly unique, it’s incredibly comfortable and warm. Perfect for a stroll through the woods on a cool morning, or as a cozy extra layer sitting around a fire on those long winter nights ahead. When I first put this on, it reminded me of something a princess might wear back in medieval days – hence, the name Guinevere. 😊
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The cape is made up of three panels that you sew together, leaving a gap at the bottom for your hands to slide through. It’s one size, but I think it can be easily adjusted by increasing or decreasing the panels. (Keep in mind that you can only increase the panels so much because you will be gathering them at the neckline.) But as it’s a very roomy cape, I doubt it will need much adjustment. As written, the back panel (which comes around your shoulders a bit) is 37” wide, and each front panel is 8 1/2” wide. The length of the cape is approximately 27”.
Materials:
Bernat Blanket Yarn in Smokey Green – 3 skeins (you won’t use all of the third skein)
Hook size P16 – 11.5mm
Tapestry needle for sewing panels together
Yarn threader – I don’t think you could thread this particular yarn without one of these
Stitch markers – I feel these are necessary for this project so you know when to change stitches in each row.
Buttons – 4 with large holes if you want to use the blanket yarn to sew them on as I did.
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Ss – slip stitch
Sp – space
St, sts – stitch, stitches
Gauge:
6 sc stitches and 6 sc rows = 4”
6 dc stitches = 4”, 3 dc rows = 4”
Notes:
1. Ch 1 and ch 2 at beginning of rows do not count as stitches. Always make your first stitch in the very first stitch in the row.
2. The back panel is approximately 37” wide and it will come around your shoulders a bit.
3. The front panels are approximately 8 1/2” wide. The cape length is approximately 27”
4. You will sew the front panels to the back panel (leaving a gap at the bottom for your hands to slip through) which will create a large rectangle. You will not be sewing top shoulder seams.
5. You will thread a length of the blanket yarn through the top of the rectangle and gather it to make the neckline.
6. If you decide to make the cape larger or smaller, be sure to use and odd number of rows. You want to end with the pattern in row 3 so that you will have a scallop at each end of your cape.
Instructions:
For Back Panel:
Ch 43
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (place marker) and the next 10 ch (you will have 10 dc, beginning chain doesn’t count), place stitch marker in 10th dc, sc in next 30 ch. (40 sts total – 10 dc and 30 sc)
Row 2: Turn, ch 1, sc in first st (move marker up) and next 29 sts, dc in next st – move stitch marker up to this dc, continue dc in next 9 sts. (40 sts total – 30 sc and 10 dc)
Row 3: Turn, ch 3, dc in next 10 sts, (move stitch marker up to the 10th dc), sc in next 30 sts.
Row 4: Turn, ch 1, sc next 30 sts, dc in next st – move stitch marker up to this dc, continue dc in next 9 sts. (40 sts total – 30 sc and 10 dc)
Your rows will start to look like this:
Rows 5 – 63: Continue alternating rows 3 and 4, ending with the pattern from row 3 as your last row. Weave in ends.
For the Front Panels (make 2):
Ch 43
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and the next 10 ch (you will have 10 dc, beginning chain doesn’t count), place stitch marker in 10th dc, sc in next 30 ch. (40 sts total – 10 dc and 30 sc)
Row 2: Turn, ch 1, sc in next 30 sts, dc in next st – move stitch marker up to this dc, continue dc in next 9 sts. (40 sts total – 30 sc and 10 dc)
Row 3: Turn, ch 3, dc in next 10 sts, (move stitch marker up to the 10th dc), sc in next 30 sts.
Row 4: Turn, ch 1, sc next 30 sts, dc in next st – move stitch marker up to this dc, continue dc in next 9 sts. (40 sts total – 30 sc and 10 dc)
Rows 5 – 13: Continue alternating rows 3 and 4, ending with the pattern from row 3 as your last row. Weave in ends.
Construction:
For the cape:
- Lay your back panel out flat with the right side facing up. Lay the front panels at each end of the back panel with the wrong side facing up – you want your right sides together.
2. Sew from the top down at each edge about 14”. You want to leave approximately 6” between your side seam and the start of the flounce at the bottom. You will not be sewing the top shoulder seams.
3. Flip the whole rectangle over so the wrong side is facing you.
4. Cut a length of yarn about 46” and thread it through your tapestry needle. You will be cutting some of this off at the end, but the longer length makes it easier to weave through the cape.
5. Starting at one end of the cape, weave the yarn through a stitch and knot it. Continue weaving the yarn through every other stitch, gathering the top as you go. You can do all of the gathering at the end, but it’s more difficult.
6. Once you have your gathers the way you like them, knot the drawstring at the other end. You should have about 23” of yarn left over at this end which you will then cut off. Weave in the extra yarn at both ends.
For the buttons:
1. Mark where you want your buttons with stitch markers. Place one at the very top, and one at the start of the flounce. Space the other two evenly in between.
2. I took a small length of yarn, wove it through the two buttonholes, then wove it through a stitch and knotted it. It was the easiest button I’ve ever done! Obviously, how you sew on your buttons will depend on the type of button you have.
That’s it! I hope you enjoy wearing this beautiful cape.
