This table runner and coaster set are perfect for your summer holiday decor. The fringe is optional but I think it goes well with the fireworks theme, don’t you?  And soft but sturdy Lion Brand 24/7 cotton yarn means it’s durable as well as beautiful!  

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Like this pattern?  You may also like the Spring Table Runner & Flower Coaster Set or the Autumn Table Cover and Leaf Coaster Set. And if you’d like to receive an email whenever there’s a new post, you can find the sign-up box in the sidebar (or below if you’re on mobile).  I never sell your info or use it for anything else.  Promise! 💗😊

Skill Level:  Easy+

Materials: This is enough for the runner and the coasters

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn in Navy – 4 skeins

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn in Red – 2 skeins

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton yarn in White – 1 skein

Hook size H/8 – 5.00 mm

Stitch markers 

Table Runner Pattern

Gauge:

14 dc and 7 dc rows = 4”

Dimensions:

17 1/2” wide by 55” long (without fringe)

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

Dc – double crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together

Dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

Yo – yarn over

Sk – skip

St, sts – stitch, stitches

Special Stitches:

Hdc2tog – Yarn over, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop (5 loops on hook), yo draw through all 5 loops.  Creates 1 decrease.

Dc2tog – Yarn over, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through last 3 loops.  Creates 1 decrease.   

Notes:

  1. I highly recommend using stitch markers to easily keep your rows even.  Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of a row, and you will know where to crochet your last stitch when you get back to that end.  
  2. You will be doing 15 stitches up and 15 stitches down each side and 3 stitches at the peak.
  3. There is a dc2tog or hdc2tog at the beginning and end of each row – these do not count as stitches.  So when you are counting 15 up and 15 down at the beginning and end of the rows, don’t include them in the count. 
  4. The two decreases (either dc2tog or hdc2tog) in the “valleys” count as stitches.  Again to clarify, when you’re counting 15 stitches up and 15 stitches down, these will be included in those numbers.
  5. The repeat is 33+3 if you’d like to make the runner larger or smaller.  
  6. Except for Row 64, all Blue rows are done in dc, and all Red and White rows are done in hdc.

Instructions:

With Navy, ch 69.

Row 1:  In the second ch from hook, dc2tog (Yarn over, insert hook in ch, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in next ch, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through last 3 loops), dc in each of next 15 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in each of next 14 chs, dc2tog twice, dc in each of next 14 chs, 3 dc in next ch, dc in each of next 15 chs, dc2tog in last two chs. 

Row 2:  Turn, ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each of next 15 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in each of next 14 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in each of next 14 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 15 sts, dc2tog in last two sts.  

Rows 3 – 7:  Repeat pattern in Row 2.  

Row 8:  With Red, Turn, ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in each of next 15 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 14 sts, hdc2tog twice, hdc in each of next 14 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, then hdc2tog in last two sts.  

Row 9:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Row 10:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 11 – 14:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2. 

Row 15:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Row 16:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 17:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 18 – 20:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 21:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Row 22:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 23:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 24 – 26:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 27:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Row 28:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 29:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 30 – 36:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Rows 37 – 40:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 41 – 42:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 43 – 50:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 51 – 52:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 53 – 56:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 57 – 63:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 64:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 8. *Note this is done in hdc, not dc like the other Blue rows.

Row 65:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Row 66:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 67:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.

Rows 68 – 70:  With Blue, repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 71:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.
Row 72:  With Blue,
repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 73:  With White, repeat pattern in Row 8.
Rows 74 – 76:  With Blue,
repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 77:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.
Row 78:  With Blue,
repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 79:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.
Rows 80 – 83:  With Blue,
repeat pattern in Row 2.

Row 84:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.
Row 85:  With White,
repeat pattern in Row 8.

Row 86:  With Red, repeat pattern in Row 8.
Rows 87 – 93:  With Blue,
repeat pattern in Row 2.  Tie off and weave in ends.

For the fringe (optional):

Cut your strands of yarn 15” long.  You will need 70 strands of Red and 6 strands of White for each end.  (This is a little more red than you should need but I like to cut extra just in case.)  To attach the fringe, fold each strand in half, pull the loop through the space where you want it, and then pull the two loose ends through the loop. Tighten. I placed one strand in each stitch along each edge.  As you can see in the photo, I only used the white in the peaks and valleys.  So there are 2 strands of white at each peak or valley, and the rest is done in red. 

Star Coaster Pattern

Materials: 

Hook size G/6 – 4.00 mm

Stitch markers 

Gauge:

4 dc = 1” (measured in Row 4)

Dimensions:

Approximately 5” from tip to tip

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

Tc – treble crochet

Ss – slip stitch

St, sts – stitch, stitches

Notes:

  1. Beginning chains count as stitches.  
  2. I prefer a magic circle to start so there’s no hole in the middle.  However, if you’d like, you can chain 2 and work 4 sc into the second chain from hook for Round 1.
  3. Do build-up chains loosely to make it easier to get your hook through for the slip stitch at the end of each round.
  4. I highly recommend putting a stitch marker in the top of your build-up chain, it makes it much easier to find where to place your slip stitches.
  5. These look best if you block them to really accentuate the shape.

Instructions:

Make a magic circle. (Or use optional instructions in Notes.)

Round 1:  Sc five times into the magic circle.  Join with a ss. (5 sts)

Round 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st and in each stitch around, ss to join.  (10 sts)

Round 3:  Ch 2, 1 dc in first st, 2 dc in each stitch around, ss to join. (20 sts)

Round 4:  Ch 2, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat from * to * around, ss to join. (30 sts)

Round 5:  Ch 1, sc in next stitch, sc, dc, (dc, tc, ch 2, ss in 2nd ch from hook – picot made, tc, dc) in next st, dc *sc, sc, sc, dc, (dc, tc, ch 2, ss in 2nd ch from hook – picot made, tc, dc) in next st, dc*, repeat from * to * three more times, sc in last st, ss to join.