I can’t tell you how many times I frogged this thing. I love the look of the yarn, and at first it just took me a while to decide which stitch I thought showed it off the best. I finally decided that simple was best – of course! Then I couldn’t get the angle right. On one of my tries, I got almost 3/4 of the way finished before I decided I just didn’t like it. So frustrating! But I finally ended up with something I really like and I hope you do, too. This shawl uses basic stitches and alternates increasing rows with non-increasing rows for the scallop effect. You will most likely have to block this – I did. So if your edges are curling, know that’s to be expected. I used an extra large hook to lighten it up and give it a slightly lacy look. One skein makes a shawl that’s 49” wide from point to point across the top edge, and 27” measured in the middle from top to bottom. You could easily make this larger with another skein of yarn as it works from the bottom up.
If you’d like an ad-free, easily printable version of the pattern, you can help support my small business and purchase it for a small fee in my Etsy shop – SimpleThings byTia, or in my Ravelry Store – Simple Things Crochet.
Materials:
Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend in Driftwood – 1 skein
Hook size N
Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
St, sts – stitch, stitches
Notes:
- Beginning chains do not count as stitches.
- You will be increasing the width of the rows by adding a stitch in the first and last stitch of each row for 11 rows, and then not increasing in the 12th row. You’ll follow this pattern throughout.
- Just a tip – if you mark all of your single crochet rows with one color of stitch marker, and all of your double crochet rows with another color, you can just move your stitch markers up with each row to keep track of when to change from sc to dc. It saves you from counting! 🙂 (I marked each end so there was a marker every other row.)
Instructions:
Ch 2.
Row 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook.
Row 2: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in next 2 sts. (4 sts)
Rows 3 – 8: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st. (Row 8 should have 16 sts)
Rows 9 – 11: Turn, ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st. (Row 11 should have 22 sts)
Row 12: Turn, ch 2, dc in first st and each stitch across to end. (22 sts)
Rows 13 – 20: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st. (Row 20 should have 38 sts)
Rows 21 – 23: Turn, ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st. (Row 23 should have 44 sts)
Row 24: Turn, ch 2, dc in first st and each stitch across to end. (44 sts)
Rows 25 – 32: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st. (Row 32 should have 60 sts)
Rows 33 – 35: Turn, ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st. (Row 35 should have 66 sts)
Row 36: Turn, ch 2, dc in first st and each stitch across to end. (66 sts)
Rows 37 – 44: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st. (Row 44 should have 82 sts)
Rows 45 – 47: Turn, ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st. (Row 47 should have 88 sts)
Row 48: Turn, ch 2, dc in first st and each stitch across to end. (88 sts)
Rows 49 – 56: Turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st. (Row 56 should have 104 sts)
Tie off and weave in ends.
If your edges are curling, you will need to block the shawl to get them to lay flat.
